Day 21: Rampart Creek to Lake Louise

This morning dawned clear and fresh. 3 degrees C fresh! Blue skies and no wind, what a pleasure.

We packed, ate breakfast and were on the road in record time today, a line of 8 brightly coloured cyclists heading towards the sunshine, and coffee, at Saskatchewan River Crossing.
Today would be a slightly longer day than yesterday, with less climbing and more downhill, we're all really looking forward to that.

The first climb of the day starts immediately after the crossing and goes on for about 5km. It's not a steep climb, just a constant drag, and as we were now in the sun, the layers of clothes were coming off quickly.

Once we topped the climb, the road winds though some of the most amazing scenery. I had ridden past it all on the way up the Parkway, but going back down and seeing it all again was incredible. I had to stop on a number of occasions just to absorb it, to sit and stare and take it all in.

Lakes with mirrored surfaces, bubbling and gurgling streams, mountains with glaciers, made even brighter by the blue sky and bright sunshine. This scenery cannot be beaten.

I finally saw my first bear in the Parkway. It was a brown black bear and was casually walking along the roadside, partially obscured by trees, paying us no attention at all.

Peyto Lake

The second climb of the day was the climb up to Bow Summit. This was going to be a test. It was another long haul up the slope, and once at the top, Alex and I went up to Peyto Lake viewpoint. The others coasted on downhill to the Num Ti Jah Lodge on the shores of Bow Lake for lunch.

As Alex had not seen the amazing blue lake before, we stopped for a little while so that he could take all the photos required, and just admire the place.
I was cold again so had a quick lunch in the sunshine in the parking lot. Lunch was 3 slices of badly crumpled bread with peanut butter on them and a large gulp of water.

Bow Lake and a hot choccie

Quickly getting the warm layers back on, Alex and I bombed downhill to the Lodge to try and catch the Saskie Crew. Today was their last day cycling, they were heading back home later today and early tomorrow.
We caught them at the Lodge and enjoyed another hot chocolate.

It was only 35km from the Lodge to the campsite, and mostly downhill, so we made some good time heading into Lake Louise. No further bears were sighted on the Parkway, leaving me with a paltry 1 bear for the records. We did however see deer, many more beautiful lakes and mountains, experience some fast downhills and enjoy a pretty amazing day on the bicycle.

I wonder if motorists have the same thrill driving the Parkway?

We had arranged to meet the Saskie Crew for drinks at the HI Hostel in Lake Louise, so Alex and I grabbed the last campsite in the campground, setup tents, showered and headed over to meet them.
A few beers and packets of chips (crisps) later, we ordered dinner and caught up on the day's events.

I hope to see some of them in Regina when I pass through in a few weeks time. I have been told there is a great place to try Poutine in town!

The Icefields Parkway has been truly amazing. I have met people I could only have imagined meeting, seen nature at its best, had some tough days on the bike, but above all, am very grateful and humbled that I have had the opportunity to cycle in this beauty.

Distance: 96.3 km
Time: 4:46:15
Height gained/lost: 1142m /-1133m
Calories: 3441

Day 20: Beauty Creek to Rampart Creek

Departure time from the hostel was scheduled for about 0830, and we were ready to go at 0845. Not bad going if you knew how complex packing a bicycle can be.

The Saskatchewan crew

Today we would go back past the Columbia Icefields, which meant a short and punchy climb was coming our way very soon. With little time to warm up, the climb was upon us. It was 11% gradient on the way down, so that could only mean 11% gradient on the way up!
Ouch!
It took a little while for my legs to find a rhythm, but once found they just ticked over.

We stopped at Tangle Falls and then again at the rather unsightly viewpoint at the top of the climb. The very nice attendant let us (almost all the way) in for a group photo.

Next stop was the Icefields itself, some had poutine and coffee, others just hot chocolate!

At the Icefields

The Asian tourists seemed to take a liking to me, a few of them coming over and talking to me, others arranging group photos with me as the centre piece.

Brian and I

From the Discovery Centre at the Icefields, it was another little climb to Parker Ridge before a lovely descent had us whooping in delight as we sped down it!
Around the Big Bend, past the Wailing Wall and into Rampart Creek. I was camping so turned right, the others were in the hostel and turned left.

The Wailing Wall

A little while later, just as I was about to set my tent up, Brian coasted in on his bike and said the hostel manager would let us camp up there for the night. There being the hostel.
I quickly repacked my gear and was soon setup over the road, enjoying the sunlight and mosquito-free environment with a mug of red wine.

This hostel has a wood-fired sauna, which I sat in for ages, occasionally breaking the heat with a quick dip in the icy cold creek running alongside the site.

Relaxing

Dinner was pasta and cheese and soup, from the Saskie crew, and dessert was a delicious, and also donated, carrot cake.

I slept soundly, my body nice and relaxed from the heat and also the relatively short day on the bike.

Distance: 55.8 km
Time: 2:51:22
Height gained/lost: 705m /-846m
Calories: 1909

Saskie Crew at the Icefields

Day 19: Jasper to Beauty Creek

I had a slightly later start than expected this morning due to prolonged goodbyes at the Hostel.

Saw a couple of elk, my first of the trip, just outside the town, grazing on the side of the road.
Hopefully today I would see some other animals!

It was still a cold start to the day, with overcast conditions expected all day. Would it warm up?
I was chasing down the five from Saskatchewan today as they were heading to Beauty Creek too, but I doubted I would catch them. They had stayed in the Athabasca Falls hostel last night, 30km up the road from me, so had a reasonable headstart.

My bike felt a little sluggish and fat so I stopped at the Sunwapta Falls again, partly to get a hot chocolate and warm up, and also to check on my bike.
When I came out to check Shirley, the rear wheel was completely flat.

Hmm...

Panniers off, tube out, check the tyre, replacement in.
The cause was the wire beading in the tyre. A small section had broken off and had punctured the tube. I removed the wire and all is now well again.

I heard that there were bears up the road but I never saw anything. The Saskie Crew had seen loads!

Rain showers passed me all the way up the valley, but no rain hit the road thankfully, keeping  me dry. Just before Beauty Creek the hail and sleet started to fall on me, but as I was right at the hostel, I wasn't too bothered.

Upon reaching the hostel, the welcome I received when I walked in was FANTASTIC!

Campfire with a full house

"Kevin's here, Kevin's here!", followed by lots of handshakes and greetings from faces both old and new.

I met Alex* from London, another Alex from France/Canada and the usual faces from the Saskie Crew; Brian, Judy, Maya, Miranda, Jim to name a few...

We lit a fire, had a quick 'shower', ate dinner and went to bed. I was tired tonight, so was out just after 9...body feeling good!

Distance: 87.6 km
Time: 4:30:16
Height gained/lost: 986m /-441m
Calories: 2911

Goats and Glaciers viewpoint

* I had heard about Alex from Johno, the South African I passed a few days previously. He had camped with Alex at the campsite in Jasper. Alex had been on the receiving end of a nasty accident.

Day 17: Beauty Creek to Jasper

I wanted to be out of the door before the Saski crew this morning as they only had a short day. My day was 30km longer.

It was rather nippy and grey this morning with low cloud, all my winter gear was having a hard time keeping me warm on the bike.

I kept passing a Canada Parks van on the road, the occupants doing work on all of the road signs that were not quite standing up straight. On one meeting they warned me that a grizzly bear had been spotted a little way up the road.
I kept me eyes peeled but only saw a few deer.

Johno and me

I pulled in at the Sunwapta Falls for a hot chocolate and bite to eat; I still wasn't warm 90 minutes into my ride.
There was another touring bike parked outside, the rider inside having a coffee.
We got chatting and I soon realised he had an English accent with a twist, much like mine.
I asked him where he was from, he said South Africa.
I asked where in South Africa, he said Cape Town.
"Where in Cape Town?"
"Fish Hoek" he replied.
"Ha, me too."

Small world eh?

Athabasca

Dag's tailfeathers

He nearly choked as he jumped up and hugged me, before quickly running out to his bike and fetching some biltong his dad had posted him from Florida.
We chatted for ages before heading off to look at the Falls. His name is Johno and is quite a character.
After viewing the Falls I decided it was my turn to share with him. I was carrying 2 spare South African flags with me, so gave him one to attach to his bike.
He was over the moon and attached it to his bike there and then!

We parted ways, him going south to Lake Louise, me heading north to Jasper.

I had a tailwind blowing me downhill today, I was flying. I passed Dag, from Norway, coming the other way, moaning about the headwind. Ha!

Athabasca

Athabasca Falls were next on the list of places to stop today. They are quite impressive, a calm river carving its way through some pretty hard bedrock, potholes and canyons evidence of a strong river.

Rolling into Jasper that evening, the Canada Parks van drove past me, hooted and waved, then drove on. Nice of them!

The weather wasn't improving, so I checked into the local hostel in Jasper for 2 nights. Tomorrow would be a day spent exploring the town, weather permitting.

Distance: 91.4 km
Time: 3:58:06
Height gained/lost: 469m /-1000m
Calories: 2812

Day 16: Rampart Creek to Beauty Creek

I slept really well last night, it certainly is a little warmer the close to Jasper you get!

I woke with very flat and heavy legs, and had overslept as well. It was 0930 before I left the campsite. Today's destination was Jonas camp, a relatively short and easy ride that passes the Columbia Icefields, and has some pretty serious climbing in it.

Cold

Pulling out of the campsite I merged with a group of 5 other cyclists, all heading north.
I got chatting to them and was soon in the group, spinning along at a good pace.
They were riding from Lake Louise to Jasper and back, over a week.

I was glad to have met them as they pulled me through some pretty tough climbs and gradients today, stuff I would have struggled with on my own.
It's quite nice having a wheel to follow...

We stopped at the Weeping Wall, the Big Bend, and at the top of the Parker Ridge, but only after a brutal 10% climb that had me off my bike and walking! Ouch.

I couldn't find a rhythm and could hardly hang onto the wheel in front of me.

We stopped at the Icefields for lunch and a warm up. I seem to be a hit with the Asian tourists here as I had a few photos taken with them. Seeing a cyclist here must seem like a novelty to them. Lunch was poutine, a burger and a Pepsi and it soon had me fuelled up and ready to go. The campsite was just down the hill but first we had to pass the sight that is the Glacier Skywalk (Google it)!

Just perfect

The crew I was riding with, from Saskatchewan, were staying at the Beauty Creek HI hostel, and invited me in for a cup of tea. Seeing as it was only 6km from my original campsite, I decided to stay the night there.

The afternoon was sunny so a quick dip in the river soon had me feeling fresh, it was glacier melt water after all, followed by a snooze in the hammock!

Raised a plastic 'glass' of wine to my dad for his birthday...Happy Birthday dad!

Early to bed, in a real bed, and quickly asleep.

Distance: 55.9 km
Time: 3:31:48
Height gained/lost: 890m /-750m
Calories: 2027

Columbia Icefields

The crew from Saskatchewan

Day 15: Lake Louise to Rampart Creek

I met Wilma at the gate to the campsite after a rather cold and slow start.
It got as low as 3 degrees last night! That's a touch chilly.

Peyto Lake

Wilma and I rode up the Icefields Parkway, her telling me the names of all the mountains on the way. The road was steadily climbing, but wasn't anything too strenuous. With all this climbing I was sure to warm up. Pah!

I was still cold when we reached Bow Summit, 35km into the ride, and also the highest point on the road with a height of 2135m.
We rode up to the top parking lot to beat the majority of the crowds, and looked down on a beautifully blue Peyto Lake, and up the valley to Peyto Glacier.

On the way to the summit we passed Hector, Lake, Bow Lake as well as the associated mountains and glaciers. The scenery was (once again) outstanding, every corner held another more spectacular view.
We had lunch in the sun in the parking lot at Bow Summit. How good that sun felt on my still-cold body.

I said goodbye to Wilma as she went back to Lake Louise, I was headed north to Rampart Creek campsite, another 50km up the road.
It was mostly downhill to the campsite, the only slight uphill being at the Saskatchewan River Crossing.
I made the campsite in good time and setup camp.

Bighorn sheep

I noticed that the mozzies had a copy of my travel schedule and had arrived to throw me a surprise party!
I cooked dinner in the cookhouse tonight, away from the little biters, and close to a warm fire.

I saw a couple of mountain goats on the cliffs opposite the campsite, and a few bighorn sheep opposite the campsite, but no other wildlife.
A bear was spotted in the campsite that evening though!

 Distance: 96.8 km
Time: 5:05:10
Height gained/lost: 1055m /-1183m
Calories: 3182

Saskatchewan River crossing