It is done

Vancouver to Halifax, 3 June - 23 September 2017

Total Distance: 7565.84 km
Total Time: 364:15:43
Total Height gained/lost: 49760m /-51253m
Total Calories: 234494
Average speed: 20.66 km/h

Day 108: Millville to Fredericton

Jazz baby!

Fact: Millville is home to the world's largest maple leaf.

The bike abuse continued today, except there was treasure on the trail to keep our minds and bodies focused. Riding on the rail trail meant that there were rail spikes, the pins used to keep the rail in place, scattered on the path. The railway was covered in the late 50's and the constant traffic on it is exposing the underlying treasures. Aaron and I each collected a few pins as mementos. (Little did we know that these would come in handy later.)

About 25km down the path I realised I had left one of my water bottles on the sink at Andrew's house. "Bother" said Kevin. Oh well, another bottle will need to be purchased.

Thankfully the trail was mostly downhill today, but my tired legs and the sandy and rocky trail surface made it as tiresome as a 100km road ride.
We cycled the last 15km into Fredericton on the cycle path, then stopped at Picaroons brewery for a well earned local pint.
While enjoying this pint, my phone buzzed. It was Andrew.

Andrew: "Where are you?"
Kevin: "In Picaroon's."
Andrew: "Stay there, Tiffany is on her way to you with your water bottle."
Kevin: "....."

Tiffany, Andrew's wife, was coming in Fredericton, and had brought my water bottle with her, and hand delivered it to me in the pub. What service!
I thanked her, and just like that, she was gone. I couldn't wipe the smile from my face, what good fortune to have my bottle back...

We left Picaroons, cycled over the river and had lunch at the Snooty Fox, the bar staff insisting we park our loaded bikes inside the bar! We had a cruisy afternoon listening to the music from the Harvester Jazz Festival, while we supped local beers from a few establishments.

Once the sun had set and darkness had set in, we headed out to Odell Park and pitched our tents just off the main path. Hopefully nobody minds.

Distance: 64.7 km
Time: 3:42:31
Height gained/lost: 608m /-752m
Calories: 1998

Day 105: Edmunston to Perth-Andover

Moving on.

It was a cold night last night, colder than other nights I have had, there was even a touch of frost on my panniers. A sign that summer is nearly over.

When we eventually moved out from Walmart, I was agitated and wanted to ride hard. We had a tailwind and I wanted to take full advantage, getting as far down the road as possible today.
As a result, I cycled off the front of the group, and when I turned to see where they were, they were not in sight. I decided to keep going as I felt strong, and not long later Aaron joined me, puffing.

Stephen and Aaron had ridden off the front as well, Matt and Amy not up to the pace today, possibly tired from the past few days? Aaron had decided to join me while Stephen went back to Matt and Amy and rode with them.
Unfortunately that was to be the last time we rode together.

Aaron and I made epic headway, taking turns on the front and resting and recovering while at the back. It was a flat day and we cruised. We stopped at Saint Leonard for a bite to eat and a water bottle refill (it was a hot day) then headed for Grand Falls. We were on the 144, and the US was just over the river from us all day.

From Grand Falls we got back onto the 'cycle path' and proceeded to batter and bash and skid our bikes along the path, in the shade thankfully, but at the mercy of the dodgy surface. We were both feeling really strong and before long wound our way into Perth-Andover and found the food van.

Here we discovered the tastiest onion rings in the world. They looked like donuts and tasted like donuts, but were filled with onion! Mmm.
And if there is one thing that needs to follow an onion ring, it's a pint , or 2, of local beer. We parked up outside the Railcar Brewery and went in, increasing the number of people in the building from 2 to 4, and sat down. The other 2 people were the owners.

We got chatting and sank a few local beers. Mitch, the owner, was telling us about the history of the building and the company, and before long had ordered us chicken wings for dinner, on the house! Top man!

Camping was at the Baird's Memorial Campground, open but not. Mitch had said that the owners wouldn't be in until at least 2pm the following day, but the site was open and available.
Yet another free camp and lovely local knowledge. I am loving the small town feeling.

Unexpected delights

Distance: 110 km
Time: 5:11:14
Height gained/lost: 753m /-825m
Calories: 3526

Sun setting on an amazing day

Day 103: Riviere-du-Loup to Cabano

Today would be all about the rail trail, but first, a coffee.

Having given Matt tea yesterday morning, he returned the favour today, giving me an EXTRA LARGE  DOUBLE DOUBLE! Basically heaps of milk and sugar with a hint of coffee thrown in.

Leading from Riviere-du-Loup to Fredericton is a disused railway line, now converted into a cycling/ATV/walking path. The surface is loose gravel and is quite nice to ride on.

Getting away from the traffic is a relief, and we wound through forests and lakes all day, climbing steadily. Where the stations used to be are campsite, working on an honesty system. Some have running water, but generally they're pretty basic, but lovely.

Amy punctured late in the day, and while Stephen and Aaron found us camping options, Matt repaired the wheel.

It was now starting to get dark so all eyes were peeled to find a suitable camping spot, and somewhere to eat.
We rolled through Cabano, and at the original station site was a perfect place to camp. It even had a sign welcoming cyclists!

We made a mental note to come back here and setup, but first we needed food. Hot food! It was now getting quite cold outside, so we ducked into Le Pub du Lac and had a smashing dinner. The biggest pizza's were ordered, and devoured, and once again Matt had us in stitches with his comedy.
This time impersonating a drunk driver/ police officer.

Fed and watered, we went back to the 'station' and setup. Sleep soon followed.

Distance: 76.8 km
Time: 4:35:24
Height gained/lost: 1064m /-929m
Calories: 2554

Beaver lodge

Day 96: Boucherville to Louiseville

We said our extended goodbyes to our host family for the last few days and headed out on the trail once again. It felt good to be back on the bike, there is only so long that you can spend cooped up in an RV before fresh air is required...

Today was mostly flat with a assisting tailwind that pushed us along the river, on a bike path, past some beautiful old churches and towns.

We took a ferry across the St Lawrence at Sorel, had lunch on the other side, and then continued on the northern shore until Louiseville, which we made just as the torrential rain started to come down again.

The crew wanted to free camp in town but couldn't find a spot, so I found a campsite a little way out of town and subsidised the camping for the evening. The spot at the Marina was beautiful, but the noise from the nearby highway spoilt it somewhat.

The rain cleared enough for us to setup camp, but came down once again, and rained all night.

Distance: 103 km
Time: 4:45:16
Height gained/lost: 228m /-297m
Calories: 2975

Day 90: South Mountain to Lancaster

Flat!

Not my tyres but the terrain....all along the St Lawrence River today.

I said goodbye and thank you to the Taylors and headed back down to the river, turning left towards Montreal. I was on a bike path for most of today, which was amazing and filled with historical markers. Lots of action in Canadian history took place on this stretch of the river, mostly involving the Americans.

I stopped for lunch at the Upper Canadian Village, and met Stefan, a missionary who had worked, and biked, in Africa, and knew South Africa well. We chatted for a while about my trip, and he relived moments of his trip, before he had to leave and meet up with his family.

I ate a lot of flies today. Not intentionally.
In the shade of the trees along the bike path, swarms of flies hover in the cool air. As I was riding through, I would become covered in the little flies, and more that one would get into my mouth. Lots of spitting quickly followed in an attempt to get the critter out before I swallowed it.

I arrived in Lancaster as the sun was starting to set, and checked into the campsite. This campsite charged me $10 because I was a CYCLIST!
They understood the needs of cyclists and charged a reduced rate. Finally, someone understands! Now tell the rest of the country.

As I was setting up my tent, another cyclist rode past and stopped to chat. It turned out to be Daryl. I had last seen him in MacGregor in Manitoba, way back in July!

Once the sun set, the mozzies and spiders came out, so I went to bed.
My site tonight is in the front 'yard' of an RV that is used as an overflow site for cyclists. Perfect for my needs.

Distance: 115 km
Time: 5:33:58
Height gained/lost: 412m /-445m
Calories: 3335

Day 56: Winnipeg to Falcon Lake

The tailwind persists.

Just outside Winnipeg I passed the Longitudinal Centre of Canada.

I got blown along Highway 1 like an autumn leaf today, and even managed some cycling on the LEFT shoulder, due to roadworks.
The roadworks did mean that there was no right shoulder to cycle on, and what space there was was covered in serious grit and gravel. Hence riding on the left.

At one point I was the only person on the road. I stopped and listened, and there was silence. Crazy to think that I was alone on this massive highway.

I stopped and refilled my water where possible, chatting with the people, and on one occasion, threw sticks for a dog.

I stopped in Prawda, once clothing suppliers to the Devil, for lunch and was told that the water was yellow, and not drinkable. I have not had to buy any water on this trip yet, but that was a first.

After lunch, about 20km from Falcon Lake, my rear wheel starting fishtailing. Uh oh...please don't be flat.
I stopped and checked, and yup, flat.
A quick check of the outside of the tyre showed no penetration, so I pumped up the tube. The air was coming out as quickly as I was pumping it up!
Joy.
Bags off, rear wheel off, tyre off.
The valve had torn away from the tube, so I binned that, inserted my spare and pumped it.
There is no fixing a torn valve, but I am still curious as to how that happened.

I checked into Falcon Lake beach campground, and before my panniers had been removed from my bike, a couple arrived at my site and said they had passed me at lunch and wanted to hear my story. They also asked if I needed anything - food, drinks. I passed.
As they left, the family next to me invited me over for dinner, which was beef skewers and pasta salad, followed by the most delicious s'mores ever!

I had a quick dip in the lake to cool the legs and body, the water must be about 20C, it's almost like a bath!
Returning to my camp, I met 3 other cyclists, going west. Jason (Aus) was riding just to ride while Dru and Chad (Can) where raising money for charity.
It was Chad's late brother's birthday today, so we had a shot of whiskey around the campfire for him, before dropping into story time. Those guys have had some adventures so far.

Ontario tomorrow.

Distance: 132 km
Time: 5:08:29
Height gained/lost: 235m /-143m
Calories: 4128

Falcon Lake beach at dusk

Day 21: Rampart Creek to Lake Louise

This morning dawned clear and fresh. 3 degrees C fresh! Blue skies and no wind, what a pleasure.

We packed, ate breakfast and were on the road in record time today, a line of 8 brightly coloured cyclists heading towards the sunshine, and coffee, at Saskatchewan River Crossing.
Today would be a slightly longer day than yesterday, with less climbing and more downhill, we're all really looking forward to that.

The first climb of the day starts immediately after the crossing and goes on for about 5km. It's not a steep climb, just a constant drag, and as we were now in the sun, the layers of clothes were coming off quickly.

Once we topped the climb, the road winds though some of the most amazing scenery. I had ridden past it all on the way up the Parkway, but going back down and seeing it all again was incredible. I had to stop on a number of occasions just to absorb it, to sit and stare and take it all in.

Lakes with mirrored surfaces, bubbling and gurgling streams, mountains with glaciers, made even brighter by the blue sky and bright sunshine. This scenery cannot be beaten.

I finally saw my first bear in the Parkway. It was a brown black bear and was casually walking along the roadside, partially obscured by trees, paying us no attention at all.

Peyto Lake

The second climb of the day was the climb up to Bow Summit. This was going to be a test. It was another long haul up the slope, and once at the top, Alex and I went up to Peyto Lake viewpoint. The others coasted on downhill to the Num Ti Jah Lodge on the shores of Bow Lake for lunch.

As Alex had not seen the amazing blue lake before, we stopped for a little while so that he could take all the photos required, and just admire the place.
I was cold again so had a quick lunch in the sunshine in the parking lot. Lunch was 3 slices of badly crumpled bread with peanut butter on them and a large gulp of water.

Bow Lake and a hot choccie

Quickly getting the warm layers back on, Alex and I bombed downhill to the Lodge to try and catch the Saskie Crew. Today was their last day cycling, they were heading back home later today and early tomorrow.
We caught them at the Lodge and enjoyed another hot chocolate.

It was only 35km from the Lodge to the campsite, and mostly downhill, so we made some good time heading into Lake Louise. No further bears were sighted on the Parkway, leaving me with a paltry 1 bear for the records. We did however see deer, many more beautiful lakes and mountains, experience some fast downhills and enjoy a pretty amazing day on the bicycle.

I wonder if motorists have the same thrill driving the Parkway?

We had arranged to meet the Saskie Crew for drinks at the HI Hostel in Lake Louise, so Alex and I grabbed the last campsite in the campground, setup tents, showered and headed over to meet them.
A few beers and packets of chips (crisps) later, we ordered dinner and caught up on the day's events.

I hope to see some of them in Regina when I pass through in a few weeks time. I have been told there is a great place to try Poutine in town!

The Icefields Parkway has been truly amazing. I have met people I could only have imagined meeting, seen nature at its best, had some tough days on the bike, but above all, am very grateful and humbled that I have had the opportunity to cycle in this beauty.

Distance: 96.3 km
Time: 4:46:15
Height gained/lost: 1142m /-1133m
Calories: 3441