It is done

Vancouver to Halifax, 3 June - 23 September 2017

Total Distance: 7565.84 km
Total Time: 364:15:43
Total Height gained/lost: 49760m /-51253m
Total Calories: 234494
Average speed: 20.66 km/h

Day 109: Fredericton to Coles Island

Hot and rolling.

Up early on a very quiet and misty morning, rolled out of the park to some very strange looks. Breakfast at Timmies then out along the 105 towards Moncton. We stayed on this road for a while, then would have options once we arrived at Jemseg.

Once again, the road we were on ran to a dead-end, with Google saying the path certainly existed. Nevertheless, Aaron and I explored the possibility of another path over the river. None existed, so we backtracked a few kilometres until we could cut across onto the Trans-Canada Highway.

Aah, bittersweet memories came flooding back as we spun along the shoulder, massive trucks hurtling past us at warp speed. The bridge over the river had a sign stating that bicycles were forbidden, but as we had no other option, we carried on pedalling. Jemseg, and lunch, awaited us on the other side.
Aaron had to fix a (yet another) broken spoke on his rear wheel too.

We had Donair's for lunch (Google them) and they hit the spot. Much water was consumed as it was now a rather toasty day.

A guy in the parking lot gave us directions along the river to a nice campsite, and the road would be quiet as well. Thanking him, we set off along this new route, and were soon climbing up little rolling hills. Around every corner, a new summit appeared, but no respite was offered. If we're doing all this climbing, surely there is a descent on offer?
What descents there were were paltry, hardly any whoops were hollered. Sad.

We soon saw the sign to the TNT Campground ahead, and we rolled in, hot and sweaty and ready for a swim in the river.
The river water was very warm, and felt great on tired legs. We even got a free "Garra Rufa" pedicure. While we were sitting in the river, little fish swam up and nibbled us, getting between our toes. It was hard not to twitch violently as it was quite ticklish!

A rather intense game of washer, or ring, toss was happening up near the office, so we popped in for a quick look. I think some of the players may have been at provincial level as they missed nothing.

Bed time was calling, so we headed back to the tents and crashed out.

Yet another interesting day on the bike.

Distance: 104 km
Time: 4:49:20
Height gained/lost: 625m /-600m
Calories: 3245

Day 99: Levis to Levis

Rain.
Rain.
Rain.
All night long.

No biking today, we were planning on going into Quebec City and have a look around, but the rain kept us in the tents and indoors for most of the day.

Rain over Levis

We hit McDonald's for breakfast and then headed over the road to Cafe Depot for morning tea/hot chocolate.
We ended up staying there for ages and the rain had set in.

By 4pm the rain had cleared to we packed up the tents and headed down the road to Place-Martiniere, where there was a campsite.
This was closer to the ferry that would take us over the river to Quebec as well, which we had decided we would visit tomorrow.

Distance: 22.5 km
Time: 1:09:10
Height gained/lost: 150m /-125m
Calories: 677

It's called camp (L-R: Suderman, McDonald, Ashcroft)

Day 94: Montreal to Boucherville

Before leaving town this morning I took a (slow) bike ride through the Old Town again, stopping to see the Notre-Dame Basilica and the cobbled streets. While stopped I met a fellow South African who had seen the flag on my bike and came over for a chat.

I crossed over the river via the highest bridge I have ever cycled over. Needless to say I kept my eyes firmly on the path. It was quite a hairy ride.

Once over the bridge, I met Jean-Francois, a cyclist going to the same town as me. I was stopped at the side of the path, eating a muffin, when he arrived.

JF: "Are you lost?"
Me: "No, I am eating a muffin."
JF: "Oh, OK."

(When I told this story to Matt he cried with laughter for a long time)

JF worked for La Route Verte (the Green Route cycle path that runs through Quebec), and was on his way to be at the opening of a new section of the cycle path. He was great to talk to as we wound our way through the backstreets and pathways around suburban Montreal, and when we parted offered me his cabin to stay in a few days down the road.
Once again the generosity is overwhelming.

I made it to Boucherville and met Matt, Amy and Stephen, along with the family they were staying with. They had met back in White River and offered them accommodation, so extended the offer to me. We were put in the RV parked in the driveway, which beat a tent hands down.

Cycling gear was swapped for swimming gear, and Matt and I were soon in the pool, listening to tunes and tempting Gustav, the dog, to get in.

A brisket was being prepared for dinner, and the hours it took to prepare it were well worth it.
It was delicious!
Yet another item gets added to the list of things I need to cook when I end this trip.

Distance: 28.6 km
Time: 1:41:52
Height gained/lost: 359m /-447m
Calories: 955

Jean-Francois and I in Bouchervillt

Day 53: Moosomin to Brandon

Rolled out of Moosomin a little later than expected as Blanche took me berry picking this morning. Saskatoon berries too!
Breakfast was 3 bagels, prepared like French toast, then cooked with an egg in the middle. Served with your choice of syrup.
What a delicious mess!

I had a slight tailwind this morning, more on my right hip than fully behind me, but it was appreciated assistance. Yet another hot day on the cards, 28C, so I was thankful for the breeze.
I stopped at the Manitoba border, said goodbye to Saskatchewan and introduced myself to Manitoba.

Manitoba then promptly stole an hour from me. Sheesh!

Instantly there were more trees present, less fields and crops. I had lunch at Virden, in the shade at A&W. I treated myself to the usual 4 slices of peanut butter bread. Mmm.
I must have consumed 6 litres of water this morning, yet I don't remember drinking that much. The sweat evaporates so quickly that one doesn't really notice it.
I made it to Brandon just as my energy levels began to dip. And when they dip, I fade very fast.
I coasted into a very well-positioned McDonald's and had a LARGE Coke and a couple of cheeseburgers, just enough fuel to get me to the campsite.

Having had the hour lifted from me earlier, all the major stores where now closed, which meant that my dinner choice was looking like brown rice with a tin of tuna thrown in.
How good does that sound?

Mark, the owner of the Turtle Crossing campsite I was staying at, heard my food story, and promptly invited me for dinner.
Steak, salads, beer. What more could I ask for?

A prime tent site? Yes please.

He led me to a spot overlooking the river, where I pitched my tent and slept like the dead.

Once again, trains in the night woke me up. It seems to be a running theme.

Distance: 147.6 km
Time: 6:29:40
Height gained/lost: 164m /-386m
Calories: 4192

Blanche and Harvey's garden

Day 52: Grenfell to Moosomin

Thankfully there was no more drama in the night. I was woken early this morning as people left camp.
Who leaves camp at 5am anyway?!

Fields of Gold

I took a slow ride through Grenfell, which is tiny, and then latched onto an awesome tailwind that whisked me through quaint little towns, fields of Canola and wheat, and interesting countryside.

I have seen countless hawks or harriers that are being chased by smaller birds, some of the aerobatic maneuvers they perform are just remarkable!
I even got waved at by a train driver. What a day this was turning out to be!

I stopped in Broadview for a boiled egg, which I carry with me. That's enough fuel for another 30km or so. Next stop was Whitewood, where I grabbed an early lunch, or very late second breakfast, I am undecided. While parking my bike, a local pulled up in his van and gave me a few drinks vouchers for Tim Horton's!
Ace!
The locals name was George Chopping, and he ran a museum just outside of town. He has built it all himself over the past few decades, and has been interviewed by National Geographic, amongst other publications.

Warmshowers

Moosomin grain elevator

Tonight I am using Warmshowers for the first time, a website for cyclists to host other cyclists.
I arrived in Moosomin a lot earlier than expected, due to the tailwind, and went to the house to meet Harvey.
He showed me the house, and my room, which was ideal. I dumped my bags and showered, then promptly fell asleep on the bed for 2.5 hours. That never happens to me, but I wasn't complaining, it felt very good.
I went to the Red Barn for dinner, met another cyclist there, and watched the CFL game between Saskatchewan and Calgary. Mid-game the power went out, so I left and went home where I met Blanche, Harvey's wife. I was then served Saskatoon berries and cream, which was delicious!

Blanche and Harvey told me that the storm the previous evening had produced a tornado nearby, and showed me the video (Youtube video) that the storm chasers had taken.
Scary stuff!

Distance: 101.2 km
Time: 3:36:40
Height gained/lost: 155m /-153m
Calories: 3406
 

Day 51: Regina to Grenfell

I left Kathleen and the kids at around 8am and was quickly out of the city. I was making good progress thanks to the gentle tailwind that was pushing me.

Not much different today on the scenery front, apart from seeing a large herd of bison just outside Indian Head, where I stopped in the shade for lunch.
It was another hot day today, with thunderstorm warnings issued for later in the day.

I stopped at Wolseley and walked across the famous swinging bridge, and stopped and spoke to a family who were just in awe of what I was doing. While in town, I met another South African, who now lives in Edmonton, and had a quick chat with him.

Leaving Wolseley I watched the nice fluffy clouds in front of me change shape, some getting bigger, others staying the same size, just getting fluffier. Just out of curiosity I looked behind me to see what was happening there.

Jiminy Cricket!
Stop the bike!
Take a photo!

That was something to look at. The entire horizon was pitch black and I had to tip my head back to see the top of the cloud. Rain was already falling to the south of me.
I had 26km to go to Grenfell and did not want to be caught in this monster! I had heard how violent these storms can be.

Setting of again, this time with a bit more effort in each pedal stroke, I saw lightning striking to the north.
The race was on, was I going to get caught or would I make it safely to cover? I kept checking on the progress of the storm and was soon happy I wouldn't get caught. At one point I saw a funnel cloud start to form, but it quickly disappeared. Could this produce tornadoes?
Eek...

Grenfell arrived and I ducked into the campsite and quickly setup my tent, chucking all my bags inside once done. No sooner had I zipped up the tent, with me inside it, did the heavens open. Big raindrops pelted my tent, smacking it wetly.
Then came the wind, buffeting my tent.
And then, a weird noise, followed by cries from people.
I poked my head out and saw the biggest hailstones I have ever seen, whacking everything in sight. My tent withstood the barrage, but some of the cars and caravan awnings in the camp got damaged.

Fifteen minutes later, it had all cleared and the evening was now beautiful and sunny, the air clean and clear.

I had a good dinner and was in bed relatively early, only to be woken in the night by trains shunting.

Distance: 137.2 km
Time: 6:03:32
Height gained/lost: 311m /-308m
Calories: 3920

Top secret Saskatchewan space program uncovered

Days 46 - 50: Regina

The following takes place between 16 - 20 July.

A lie-in and a slow start to the morning saw us eventually head out to "The Leg" - the Legislative Building situated next to the beautiful Wascana Lake. We stopped to take a look at the building and the gardens, but landed up taking a guided tour around the inside of the building.
It has lovely marble pillars and houses some amazing artwork of the past judges and First Nations elders.


The table used during the meeting of the Fathers of Confederation in Quebec City in 1864 is in the library, but with six feet removed. You can see the cut line in the picture.
Dinner on Sunday night were delicious home-smoked ribs and salad.

Monday was bike cleaning day, and I had the most willing helper. Alexis gave Shirley a wonderful soapy bath and had my tires sparkling in no time. The dirty chain stood no chance and was soon gleaming too! Thanks Alexis, Shirley is now purring and ready for the next stretch of the journey.
I took Shirley to Dutch Cycles, a bike store recommended to me by Brian of the Saski crew while on the Icefields Parkway, to have new handlebar tape wrapped on, as well as to get a new pump.
They did a great job, chucked in a little discount too, and had me back out and home in no time at all.
Monday night was baseball night. We were going to watch the Red Socks. Not those Red Socks, but the Regina Red Socks.
At the Mount Pleasant diamond, the home side took the victory over Moose Jaw, 10-3.
The smoke from the BC fires had blown in all day and provided us with a fireball red sunset!

Tuesday morning we went to the Mosaic Stadium to watch the Saskatchewan Roughriders practice. They are the local CFL team and are playing Clagary this weekend. Following the stadium, Kathleen, the kids and I went to Coney Island Cafe for poutine! You can have any topping imaginable, and the same goes for their milkshakes! Tonight I met with Brian and Aldona, and kids, from the Icefields Parkway, for dinner. A lovely feast was provided. Thank you, it was really good to see you again!

Wednesday morning we went to the Royal Saskatchewan Museum followed by lunch in Victoria Park. We unfortunately missed the farmers market, oh well.
We made our way to Milky Way this evening for ice cream. The weather had been amazing the last few days, and tonight is no different. Calm, and warm, it's a perfect night for ice cream.

Thursday. A shopping day. I picked up a few items for the road tomorrow, packed my bags and took Shirley for a quick spin. I haven't been on the bike since Saturday, giving my legs a complete break, and the saddle sores a chance to simmer down!

Tomorrow I am aiming for Grenfell, 130km away. Hopefully the wind will assist.

Stats: Week 6

Time to crack out the big days. Some serious cycling was done this week. 833 km in five and a half days!

Total Distance: 2547.7 km
Total Time: 123:29:39
Total Height gained/lost: 21357m /-21628m
Total Calories: 83508

Day 45: Moose Jaw to Regina

Today we find the Moose. Only the largest moose will do.

Moose Jaw is home to the tallest moose in the world, and I need to add it to my list.

A statue on the outskirts of town greets Jim and I as we roll by. The moose looks slightly comical in appearance, but we take the photos anyway.

Main Street

A short day is on the cards for me today, I think Jim may push on, depending on how he feels.

The wind made us pay for yesterday's tailwind right from the start. Hitting us on the right shoulder, it was blowing across us and slowing us down.

We were both a bit flat from putting in 176 km yesterday, so the speed was a touch under 20km/h for most of the day. Jim told me that the stretch between Moose Jaw and Regina was one of the flattest, and he wasn't wrong. Fields of Canola and Flax, yellow and blue respectively, fill the space between the road and the horizon, and I am sure you can see the curvature of the earth out here!

I was sore and tired, and the conversation with Jim had dried up. We were both in the pain cave, and were only focusing on getting to Regina.

We had heard rumours of large group of cyclists coming up behind us, and we saw some flags on the side of the road mentioning Sea2Sea. We stopped in at one of the RV's and spoke to the guys manning the station. They were supporting a trans-Canada cycle tour in aid of ridding the world of poverty. After washing our hands, they allowed us to refill our water bottles and have a few snacks. 

I welcomed the break and the opportunity to get off the bike for a few moments.

We passed another two support vans on the way to Regina, and the first of the cyclists passed us just outside Regina too. It's amazing seeing the speed differential between a loaded touring bike and an unloaded racing bike! A bit disheartening too.

I reached my turnoff and gave Jim a big hug and a thank you, he had certainly made the road a happier place for me over the last day and a half. 

I turned up Lewvan Drive and cycled up to the Whipplers, the sister of the family I had stayed with in Calgary.

What a welcome sight they were!

With very tired and sore legs, I parked my bike in the garage and went in for a lovely shower and a hotdog lunch...

Dinner was a lovely cedar plank salmon...sleep soon followed.

Distance: 81.8 km
Time: 4:13:00
Height gained/lost: 244m /-188m
Calories: 2154