Days 1-9: a summary

As I lie on my inflatable mattress listening to water tumble over rocks and bird song fill the air, I thought I would give you a brief summary of the past few days.

Here goes.

Day 1 started in Calais, France, in the damp rain/mist. Richard and I were heading for Ypres in Belgium. And got there.

By lunchtime the crosswinds had simmered down and the rain/drizzle started to ease, and when we crossed into Belgium the sun came out, which made our entrance into Ypres that much better.

We watched the last post being performed in the Mennin Gate memorial. No waffles were had but beer and steak was consumed.

Day 2‎ was a cracker weather-wise, light breeze, sunny and 26C. Richard and I mostly followed the river south towards Frasnoy. The Detour de Jour was off a beautiful stretch of road onto some original cobbles, or pavé, as seen in the cycling classics. Was a long day, 120Km.
Mussels and chips and coke for lunch.

Day 3. Ashley, Richard and Victoria left me today to head home. Thank you for the company folks.
This is were the real game begins Kevin!

Rolling day through the Ardennes, 123km in 6 hours, 1200m of climbing. Loved the tailwind. Original destination had nothing open due to public holiday, so rode onto Charleville-Mezieres and tucked into (the tail-end of) the local beer festival. Another beautiful, fortified town.

Day 4‎. 1100m of climbing. Tough day on the bike, never warmed up even with the sun shining. Air was cold too. Felt sick with flu.

Detour de Journey was through Brandeville en route to Verdun - what a find! Painted pillboxes, fresh water, clean and quiet forests, and a great descent. And farting cows.
Saw lots of WW1 military cemeteries ‎and saw a couple of jets buzz overhead, must be a military airforce base close by. 

The citadel of Verdun is HUGE. 

Nancy

Day 5. Struggled to get up and go today, head wasn't in it. Was even colder last night and body felt miserable. Managed to get going and as I got closer to Metz, the day warmed and the legs felt better. Detour de jour was along the Meuse river, single track, past a naked swimmer. The climb to the campsite in Nancy could/should be included in the Tour de France - 15 minutes in donkey gear at 5 km/h. Nice campsite and sunset as a reward.

Baguettes eaten: 3

Saint-Clement

Day 6. Nancy - Celles-sur-Plaine (82.3 km) Legs feeling tired and knotty today. Two pain au chocolat for brekkie as well as the usual cereal and water. Hot day today with constant crosswinds, stopped in Saint-Clement for lunch. A quiet town in a string of quiet towns encountered today. The road finally turned north in the last 15km, providing me with a nice tailwind all the way to the campsite.

Celles-sur-Plaine

Only one in the campsite, apart from the killer mozzies, a suspicious-looking cat and some birds.
Ravioli and peaches for dinner, not mixed. Church bell in town rang every 15 minutes.
Detour de jour was along a canal path over a waterfall and through shoulder-high grass, I don't think this path is used that often. Nice rain during the night.

just tasty

Baguettes eaten: 5

Day 7. Celles-sur-Plaine - Colmar (102.5 km) Legs felt good this morning, which is a good thing as the road went straight uphill from the start. Overcast and humid, with a tailwind.
Lots of climbing today, which meant lots of sweating,
which in turn attracts lots of little bugs. Beginning to think I am a magnet for all insects on the road.
Descending into the Rhine valley was amazing, looked across to see the Black Forest hills/mountains looming. They can wait until tomorrow.
Campsite was noisy (next to the highway), but Colmar old town is amazing. Old and Germanic, beautiful to walk around.
Lots of agriculture everywhere - barley, wheat, vegetable crops, cattle and vineyards. And castles on the hills.

Day 8. Colmar - Schluchsee (96.7 km) Left France, entered Germany.
Today went like this.
Pedal uphill. Repeat.
Over 1500m (5000 ft) of climbing today, the road just kept on going uphill. First day I didn't make my destination. Overcast day and my body never warmed up. Was cold the entire day, and as I climbed higher the air got colder. Misread the map at the top of the climb, and rode 10 km the wrong way around the lake (Schluchsee). Met a guy on a bike coming in the opposite direction and asked him where the campsite was. "It's on the other side of the see" he said, pointing to the exact point I had started my detour from. He then said to follow him and disappeared in a cloud of dust.
You are probably wondering how an elderly gentleman is so fast on a bike.
E-bikes. My first encounter. (I would grow to despise them.)


He came back to fetch me and pointed out the little engine nestled above his bottom bracket, and then apologised for racing away. I think a little bit of me died when I saw how effortlessly he rode the same path as me. He got me to camp safely though and then headed home, 40 km away!
Dinner went down clapping hands.

Day 9. Schluchsee - Zurich (90.1 km)
Quite glad I stayed in Schluchsee, my original destination, Hausern, had no camping facilities.

pretty big wood pile

When looking for a nice route down to Koblenz, a cyclist appeared at my elbow and asked where I was headed. He tutted and scratched his chin and then suggested another route to me, before turning and heading off in the opposite direction. "Take ze Alb river road, is gud. You alone und no cars." He wasn't wrong.
This was by far the best road I had ridden so far on this tour, 25 km of downhill, accompanied only by the sounds of a bubbling and gurgling river and birdsong in the trees.